Anyone and everyone who has been to New York City has tried – and raved about – Halal Guy’s chicken and rice. The dish is so popular that there are copycat recipes of it online. I’ve tried making it once but to tell the truth, is not as easy as it looks.
The key is the sauce and the rice and of course, the chicken. You really need to get all three down to create that New York synergy.
A new hole in a wall restaurant in Karachi, Walla, situated in the upcoming restaurant hub on Khayban-e-Shahbaz, is run by a Pakistani who spent many years abroad. He’s come back because he believes there is a big market for a shawarma and chicken and rice joint in Karachi – and says that business has been good.
I went in specifically to have the chicken and rice – and to see if it lived up to it’s inspiration.
Walla, which means “I Promise” in Arabic is a strange name for a restaurant but maybe since it has an instant Arabic recall, it was the name of choice. With a black and orange theme, an animated Shaikh with shades, it’s not your regular dhabba-style “Arbi Shawarma” joint. Seems like it’s got an uplift, perhaps an ode to the modernism being declared by Saudi Crown Prince Muhammad bin Salman.
I called and ordered ahead:
“Just the chicken and rice?” the person taking my order asked.
“Yes, with extra sauce.”
The white sauce was on point. Perfectly seasoned, with the right amount of garlic and yogurt. I could have just sat there and taken tiny spoonfuls of the sauce with nothing else. This particular chicken and rice also had a red sauce, which felt a little unnecessary – and also under seasoned. If they really wanted to keep the red sauce, they should just mix a little more than necessary Sriracha in the white sauce and be done with it.
The chicken was tender and flavourful, perfectly balanced. It had the tang of lemon and the zest of coriander but the knife in the heart of this almost, almost perfect dish was the rice.
I assume the chef thought that a Pakistani palette would require Pakistani masala. So instead of the rice being slightly tinted with yellow turmeric, the rice was shoved into haldi like no one’s business. With a mix of other masalas, the taste of the rice was so overpowering, it took over the whole chicken and rice and that’s where it’s New York inspiration disappeared into the Times Square sir. Poof.
Meanwhile, I didn’t try the shawarma but I’ve heard good reviews.
While Walla did not match up to Halal Guys, much to our disappointment, it was a close second and decent place one can go in case the cravings get unbearable. As for the rest of those who haven’t tried Halal Guys, you’ll probably enjoy it more.
